Éclairs and Growing Apart

by Libby

“Do you think people change?” Myrna, the éclair on its way to her mouth, paused. Lowering the pastry she looked at the Chief Inspector with clear, searching eyes. (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.244)

Gamache has just had a conversation with Beauvoir about the breakdown of Annie's marriage. He is trying to understand it. And given Jean-Guy's personal circumstances, it was inevitable Gamache would seek his counsel, trying to make some sense of it.

So what happened?” Gamache asked. “Did you change? Did Enid? Something changed.” Beauvoir looked at Gamache with surprise. The Chief was genuinely perturbed. (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.237)

How easy is it to grow apart in a relationship, particularly a long-term one? Pretty easy I think without some effort. Who isn't familiar with the old adages, 'relationships aren't easy', 'you have to work at relationships, nurture them'?

I think most couples struggle with 'compatibility' at some stage/s in their relationship. Feelings of 'not quite fitting with each other' are inevitable over the years as we change and grow, and not always at the same times and in the same ways. Sometimes a spouse can be left behind. It can be a temporary transition or a symptom of growing distance in a relationship. Over time feelings of being stifled or resentful can emerge. Loneliness and distance can ensue.

Living with another person can be very hard and demands commitment by both to keep balance and fairness and joy in the mix. The commitments and responsibilities and changing dynamics of our busy lives, taking the other one for granted and even complacency can get in the way and at times create distance in a relationship. And then there's the niggling and arguments over inconsequential things that fuel frustration and resentment. There is the inevitable tension between your self-identity and theirs, and perhaps times of tip-toeing around the other person's ego and needs. It can all contribute to changing perspectives, losing interest in each other and an emotional disconnection, a loss of intimacy, closeness. It makes me think of a detached Beauvoir retreating to his basement, away from Enid.

When you drift apart, you either want to commit to closing the gap, do nothing about it, or end the relationship.

Acknowledging that there is a problem, the changes you see in your relationship and yourselves, is an obvious start. It's a desire to change, a commitment to persist, get closer, have deeper conversations (which may have become superficial dealing with the daily mechanics of life), about your innermost thought feelings and aspirations. How to reconnect where there is an emotional disconnection? Easier said than done at times!!! It can be difficult expressing your deepest feelings and needs when you've grown apart.

How easy is it to lose the ‘spark’ in a relationship when we take the other one for granted, and lose sight of each other's unique qualities? It’s a matter of striking a balance between your individual interests and those which you have in common, making some effort to nurture your individuality but also invest time and effort in each other.
And you just have to find the laughter, the fun, the lightness of being. Gamache and Reine-Marie's relationship throughout the series is epitomised by their ability to do this. Even as they consider the thought that Annie has perhaps found someone else they are naturally playful with each other.

“Armand,” she’d asked, ... “What would you have done if you’d been married when we met?” ... “God help me,” he finally said, turning to her. “I’d have left her. A terrible, selfish decision, but I’d have made a rotten husband after that. All your fault, you hussy.” Reine-Marie had nodded. “I’d have done the same thing. Brought little Julio Jr. and Francesca with me, of course.” “Julio and Francesca?” “My children by Julio Iglesias.” “Poor man, no wonder he sings so many sad songs. You broke his heart.” “He’s never recovered.” She smiled. “Perhaps we can introduce him to my ex,” said Gamache. “Isabella Rossellini.” (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.242)

Where such a commitment can't be made, where there is no point in trying to work at or salvage a relationship, where you no longer fit with the other in any meaningful way, the relationship will invariably have run its course.

“Suppose you and Dad had been married to different people when you met,” Annie finally asked, looking them square in the face. “What would you have done?” They were silent, staring at their daughter. It had been, thought Gamache, exactly the same question Beauvoir had recently asked. “Are you saying you’ve met someone else?” Reine-Marie asked. “No,” Annie shook her head. “I’m saying the right person is out there for David and for me. And holding on to something wrong isn’t going to fix it. This will never be right.” (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.241)

You can't help holding up a mirror at different times, maybe when you turn 30, 40, 50, 60, retire ... and take stock of your life, and how things fit. Whether this is the life you imagined for yourself, weighing up the positive and negative aspects of a relationship and all those questions of compatibility, and even fundamental differences that may have become more obvious over time. And when things are insurmountable, sometimes it's an event or emotional trigger that hastens the ending of a relationship as in the case of Beauvoir and Enid. Do you wonder if Enid was also taking stock of her relationship with Beauvoir or whether she was taken by surprise? Regardless, there is always pain when a relationship ends.

“You said the raid on the factory was what finally made you decide to separate from Enid.” Beauvoir nodded. That much was the truth. “I wonder if it had the same effect on Annie.” “How so?” “It was a shattering experience, for everyone,” said the Chief. “Not just us. But our families too. Maybe, like you, it made Annie reexamine her life.” (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.242)

Then this:

“Are Annie and David growing apart?” “She didn’t say anything to you?” Beauvoir shook his head. His brain sloshing about in there. With only one thought now. Annie and David were growing apart. (A Trick of the Light, Kindle, p.237)

I've got to admit to being quite excited at the prospect and laughed at the thought of Beauvoir's sloshing brain! This was rather a favourite part of the book for me. So many revelations in this one exchange between Gamache and Beauvoir, including the fact that Beauvoir had loved Annie since three years previously. Didn't we all want this to end well for him?

Orange and ruby grapefruit éclairs

 

Myrna's eclair was never described but this is my take on it.

I've made choux pastry many times before but never éclairs. I actually had to buy a pastry bag and  a larger size piping nozzle for the pastry shapes. But I'm glad I did as these éclairs were easy to make and I ended up with quite a scrumptious dessert to take to a friend's dinner party.

Éclairs can  simply be filled with cream and topped with icing. But for dessert a filling of orange crème pâtissière (pastry cream) made even more tangy with orange and ruby grapefruit curd, some whipped cream and a sprinkling of walnut praline is a nice indulgence. Particularly since the top of the eclairs were dipped in chocolate ganache. Double yum!! The crème pâtissière, curd and ganache can be made a day or two before you bake the pastries.

I chose oranges and ruby grapefruit (sweeter tasting than the yellow grapefruit) for the flavouring as they were at peak ripeness in my garden.

This recipe made twelve éclairs.

Choux pastry

 

I find it easier to make this pastry by hand but you can also use a food processor when it comes to adding the eggs to the dough. The baking process is about getting a good rise and colour, and then drying them out for a crisp shell.

60g/2.5oz unsalted butter

3/4 cup of water

pinch of salt

130g/4.5oz plain flour, sifted

3 large free range eggs, lightly whisked

1.  Preheat the oven to 220C/430F

2.  Put the butter, salt and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil, ensuring the butter melts before boiling point is reached.

3.  Remove from the heat and add all of the sifted flour. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon to combine.

4.  Return the saucepan to the stove and medium heat and cook the dough for a couple of minutes, stirring continuously until it comes together.

5.  Remove the saucepan from the stove and beat in a third of the whisked eggs until completely absorbed into the dough.

6.  Add another third of the eggs and beat into the dough until absorbed.

7.  Add as much of the remaining whisked egg to ensure a soft glossy dough that holds its shape.

8.  Allow the dough to cool and then spoon into a pastry bag with a 15mm/0.6 inch piping nozzle.

9. Line a baking sheet with baking paper securing the sides with a smear of butter.

 

10.  Pipe 12x10cm/4 inch lengths, spaced generously apart.

11.  Bake for 10mins at 220C/430F, then reduce the oven to 180C/350F for another 20-25 mins.

The choux pastries are ready when they are puffed and brown.Switch off the oven, and open the door a third of the way. Leave the pastries to dry out for 15 mins. You can aid the drying out by making a small incision with a knife at the end of each pastry. 

12.  Cool on a wire rack.

Orange and ruby grapefruit curd

 

This is a rich citrusy curd with a buttery, soft texture that can be cooked quickly on the stove top. It makes about 2 cups of curd. I store it in a lidded glass container in the fridge. It's usually gone within a week!

4 large egg yolks, free range

2/3 cup of caster/superfine sugar

60g/2.5oz unsalted butter, diced

1tbsp of orange and ruby grapefruit zest

100ml/3.5fl oz of freshly squeezed orange and ruby grapefruit juice, strained

1.  Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale and creamy.

2.  Combine with the butter, juice and zest in a saucepan over medium heat.

3.  Stir continuously and bring to a simmer.

4.  When it starts to bubble remove from the heat. Continue to stir.

5. Cool and store in sterilised jars in the fridge.

Orange crème pâtissière

 

Crème pâtissière is a traditional filling for many sweet pastries. I added orange zest and a little orange liqueur to ramp up the citrus flavours in the éclairs.

1 cup of full cream milk

2tbsp of orange zest

3 egg yolks, free range

50g/1.75oz caster/superfine sugar

20g/0.75oz cornflour/cornstarch

2 tbsp Grand Marnier

1.  Combine the milk and orange zest in a saucepan over medium heat and slowly bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.

2.  In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and cornflour/cornstarch until thick and creamy.

3.  Pour on the hot milk and zest and whisk all the ingredients until smooth.

4.  Transfer the mixture to the saucepan and cook over a medium heat. Stir continuously as it thickens and comes to the boil.

5.  Remove from the heat and continue to stir until it cools down. 

Note: If your crème pâtissière is a little lumpy don't worry. Just blitz it in a food processor or blender and it will be silky smooth in seconds.

6. Scrape into a glass bowl, and cover and refrigerate when cool.

Cream and walnut praline

 

A little bit of cream adds a lighter note to the éclair filling. And the walnut praline packs a bit of crunch and flavour punch. Follow the recipe for pecan praline in this earlier post:

Maple Syrup Taffy and Old Quebec City 

3/4 cup pure cream, lightly whipped to hold its shape, and unsweetened

2/3 cup of chopped walnut praline

Chocolate ganache

This deep rich chocolate, not-overly-sweet topping is the perfect companion, I think to the éclair fillings. 

This recipe will provide you with plenty of left over ganache to cover a cake or fill little tartlets, topped with crème fraîche and a sprinkle of praline. 

So many possibilities, including eating it by the spoonful for a chocolate hit!!

 

160g/5.5oz couverture chocolate* -- I used Valrhona (66% cocoa mass)

125ml/4fl oz of pure cream

*You can find out more about couverture chocolate in this post: Hot Chocolate and Regret

1.  Chop the chocolate into small pieces.

2.  Heat the chocolate and cream together over gentle heat until the chocolate melts, stirring continuously.

3.  Remove from the heat and beat until it thickens and is cool.

4.  Store in the fridge until ready to use. Warm very slightly to soften for dipping the pastry tops.

Decoration

 

I love to make glacé oranges and cumquats using fruit from the garden. They last for many months stored in the fridge in their syrup. They are great for flavour and decoration. 

I also often pick flowers from the garden to use in salads or to decorate sweets. For the éclairs, in keeping with the orange theme, I used glacé orange and calendula (pot marigold) petals.

small wedges of glacé orange

petals from an edible flower (eg calendula)

Assembling the éclairs

 

1.Fold one cup of the orange and grapefruit curd into the orange crème pâtissière until well blended.

2.  Cut the éclairs in half lengthways with a sharp knife. Gently scrape out any soft dough inside.

3.  Fill the bottom half of each pastry, generously with the crème pâtissière and curd mixture.

4.  Spoon on a layer of whipped cream.

5.  Sprinkle walnut praline over the cream.

6.  Dip each pastry top into a small bowl of soft chocolate ganache, to form a smooth even layer.

7. Place each top on its bottom.

8.  Top with glacé orange, calendula petals or whatever you choose.

9.  Refrigerate until required. Serve slightly chilled

Don't even bother with a cake spoon and fork. Fingers and a napkin do these éclairs far more justice!

Bon appetit!